IT IS SPREADING MORE AND MORE AND IN THE UNITED STATES THERE IS THE FIRST CERTIFIED COMPANY IN THE WORLD. BUT DOES THIS PRACTICE REALLY MEAN?
The starting point is regenerative organic agriculture, a true cultural change that puts the soil and in particular its microflora at the center.
Vines are one of the crops that can benefit the most from this new agricultural production model.
More specifically, the aim of this cultivation practice is to restore the soil to full vitality and efficiency. This involves acting on the minerals and the organic and microbiological substance of the soil, possibly by combining organic farming practices for plant nutrition and crop protection. The goal is thus to restore the fertility of the soil so that it can be 'home' to healthy and resistant plants: vines included.
In regenerative organic agriculture, the traditional agronomic management model is therefore overturned: in classic agronomy, the plant is at the center and the soil is considered little more than a 'neutral' medium where crops are grown; the function of nutrition is usually managed with chemical fertilizers that the soil must simply 'absorb', to then release the nutrients to the plant. The soil therefore has almost exclusively a 'mechanical' function, and its fertility is usually referred to its mineral component, not the organic one. The role of soil organic matter is almost completely ignored, especially the ability of microflora to regulate the absorption and distribution of plant nutrients.
Hence the plant is considered as a passive creature, a sort of terminal patient to be treated with drips and vitamins to make it survive and 'pump up' its development capacity, without considering that a plant is a living being and above all disregarding its ability to naturally find nourishment thanks to its relationship with the soil microflora. On the other hand, classical agronomy almost completely ignores the microflora as if it had no function at all (when actually it plays a key role in facilitating both plant establishment and growth and the function of nutrition in a soil). The result is that agricultural practices tend to damage the microflora, reducing the natural ability of the microbiota (the set of microorganisms present in the soil) to provide a 'comfortable' and healthy environment for plants.
In regenerative organic agriculture, ordinary farming is almost completely discontinued (among other things, with considerable savings in means, labor and fuel) in order to preserve the integrity of the microbiota and avoid damaging the mycorrhizae by aerating the soil; instead of chemical fertilization, microbial preparations (both nutritive and hormonal) are used in the different phenological phases of the crops, to regulate nutrition and vegetative development; tilling is favored to allow plants to deepen their roots under the soil and for rainwater to run down to become available to the plants (as is the case in untilled soils); soil cover is ensured by techniques such as grassing and cover cropping (an intercropping crop used to ensure soil cover and enhance microbial activity). Of course, chemicals (fertilizers, insecticides, and fungicides) are banned, as they are not only extremely harmful to the environment, causing poisoning of the soil and human and plant health, but also, they exert an antiseptic action that inhibits soil microflora.
The results? From the point of view of soil-plant balance, the improvement of soil development conditions and the integration of microorganisms involving herbaceous and tree species will favor microflora stabilization, allowing plants to improve their nutrition and develop more harmoniously. Plants can therefore grow healthier in a healthier environment, naturally developing their ability to resist pest attacks, instead of being confined to the role of sickly 'laboratory animals' unable to defend themselves against disease.
While the above applies to all crops in general, with regard to vines in particular, regenerative organic cultivation techniques that are particularly suited to this species can be implemented.
The use of LAB (a preparation based on lactic acid bacteria), for example, can make it possible to prevent fungal diseases (which in the event of summer rainfall would lead to a significant deterioration in the quality and quantity of the grapes) by naturally removing those sugary exudates from the leaf pages of the vines (without the use of fungicides or copper or sulphur) that are the food for pathogenic fungi (powdery mildew and downy mildew). The use of copper and sulphur, in fact, although admitted by the protocols of organic and biodynamic agriculture, cannot be considered a properly 'organic' technique, as it produces a dispersion of heavy metals into the environment, in addition to favoring an antiseptic activity (which is the one that allows the fight against fungal pathogens) that has a negative effect on the microbiota. Not to mention the fact that in years with rainy summers, as happened in 2018, attempts to control downy mildew and powdery mildew exclusively with copper and sulphur are unable to contain the damage to the vines and the harvest.
The quality of the grapes, and in particular the content of organic acids and aromatic components, will also improve as a result of the regenerative organic regime, with the result that high quality organic grapes, suitable for the production of fine wines, are delivered to the cellar.
Finally, regenerative organic agriculture also yields a great advantage for the farmer's budget, given the significant reduction in production costs: no costs for fertilizers, chemical treatments (replaced by treatments with microbial preparations), elimination of ordinary soil tillage, replaced by the distribution of microbial preparations (some of which can also be carried out using the irrigation distribution technique). Many of the microbial preparations can then be self-produced directly on the farm, without the need to resort to external suppliers and thus to bear supply costs.
A better and more cost-effective production by harnessing the potential of biology and the ability of plants and soil microorganisms to interact: this is the goal of regenerative organic agriculture and viticulture.
Among the countries where regenerative viticulture is gaining most momentum are certainly France, Spain, and the United States, where various associations have been established to provide a meeting point for winegrowers who want to share information, experiences and know-how in support of biodiversity and the fight against climate change.
One question remains to be answered at this point. What about the taste of wine? Those who do regenerative agriculture are convinced: it improves!
For Jason Haas, the first in the world to obtain a regenerative organic certification in his Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles, California, this is how one obtains wines that really emphasize terroir and even give wines 'the taste' of the place.
On the other hand, the slogan of the Regenerative Organic Alliance, the body issuing the certification, is clear: Farm like the world depends on it.
Regenerative agriculture, it must be admitted, is fascinating. What do you think?
Sources:
https://www.enolo.it/lagricoltura-rigenerativa-e-il-futuro-del-vino-il-trend-ce/




















